WHAT'S IN A NAME?
Tupaia: Polynesian navigator, scholar, and artist
Tupaia was a Polynesian tohunga — a master navigator from Raiatea, French Polynesia, where I grew up. In 1769, he joined James Cook’s voyage aboard the Endeavour at the request of Joseph Banks, becoming Banks’ guide, advisor, and member of his scientific party.
Tupaia first guided Cook through the Society Islands—Tahiti, Moorea, Raiatea, Bora Bora—and shared detailed knowledge of 72 islands across a vast Pacific area, from Samoa and Tonga to the Marquesas and Tuamotus. In New Zealand, he served as interpreter and was seen by the Māori as an ambassador from their ancestral homeland. He also left remarkable drawings of island life and early encounters between Polynesians and Europeans.
We named our vessel Tupaia to reflect the spirit of cross-cultural exploration and the enduring inspiration of this brilliant Polynesian navigator.
EQUIPMENT
Following a fairly extensive refit, TUPAIA is now equipped for long-term autonomy and remote cruising. Nothing fancy — just a Dufour 35 with some upgrades for comfort and autonomy.
SELF-SUFFICIENCY
We carry 800 liters of freshwater in two tanks, supplemented by five 20-liter jerrycans. For fuel, we have a 250-liter diesel tank and ten 20-liter jerrycans, giving us enough for approximately 350 hours of engine use (excluding heating). For cooking, we use the Refleks heater whenever we can (that is, in cold weather) and a 13kg gas tank with two smaller backup tanks. This setup allows us to remain off-grid for months at a time, with enough reserves to handle long stretches without resupply.
ELECTRICITY
The vessel is equipped with a 220 Ah AGM battery. It has worked well, securing enough electricity for charging the extensive amount of camera gear and computers while running the navigation equipment. The battery can be charged by the engine, 2 x 90W + 1 x 110W solar panels or by the 400W wind generator.
RIG AND SAILS
Our mainsail uses a slab-reefing system with three semi-automatic reefs. The genoa is set on a Profurl furler for quick deployment and precise trimming. We also carry a storm jib and a gennaker to handle both heavy and light wind conditions, along with an old spare genoa and mainsail for temporary use in case of damage. One day, we hope to complete the wardrobe with a symmetrical spinnaker.
We rely on careful weather monitoring to avoid storms whenever possible. If caught out at sea, we carry a drogue anchor that can be secured to four stern attachment points to distribute the load and reduce the risk of damage. To steer the boat, we use a Cap Horn wind vane offshore, and a small tiller-drive when motoring.
PROPULSION
A Volvo MD2030 was installed in 2015 and has run reliably ever since. Its 26 HP output is adequate for our needs, consuming under 1.5L/hour when motoring at 4–5 knots in calm conditions. The main limitation is its inability to push against winds over 20 knots—less than ideal in places like Patagonia, where sudden gusts and narrow channels are common.
We use a fixed three-blade propeller, which adds some drag under sail but ensures dependable thrust when the engine is needed.
SAILS ELECTRONICS
Our navigation electronics have been steadily upgraded in recent years. In addition to standard gear, we use a Class B AIS transponder, radar, and sonar. AIS makes us visible to large ships and other AIS-equipped vessels, while radar and sonar are invaluable in poorly charted waters.
Offshore, our main chartplotter is OpenCPN running on a Raspberry Pi 4, connected to all onboard electronics via NMEA 0183. The system broadcasts data to tablets and smartphones over Wi-Fi. In areas where OpenCPN charts are unreliable—like parts of Patagonia—we rely on Navionics maps.
For weather forecasts and email, we use an Iridium Go, staying connected beyond cellular coverage without being distracted by the internet.
ANCHORING
Anchoring is our primary safety system when exploring remote areas—and key to a good night’s sleep. We rely on a 20 kg Vulcan anchor, an electric Lofrans Kobra windlass, 60 meters of 8 mm chain, and 30 meters of rope. This setup has proven very reliable over the years, even in strong winds and poor holding conditions. The chain is secured to two reinforced cleats with solid backing plates. We also carry a secondary anchor with 30 meters of chain and 20 meters of rope.
To tie off to shore when needed, we carry an extensive set of floating 16 mm three-strand lines: 2 × 110 m, 2 × 75 m, 2 × 50 m, and 2 × 25 m. It's admittedly more than we need—most of the time, we only use the two longest ones.
HEATING
Tupaia is primarily heated with a Refleks 66MK diesel stove, which provides reliable and efficient warmth in cold conditions. In addition, a hot water circuit runs through the galley, connected to the engine, a Webasto heater, and a hot water tank. This system allows us to capture heat while motoring, and use the Webasto as a backup source. The Webasto is typically reserved for strong wind conditions when the Refleks may struggle with downdrafts, ensuring we always have a way to stay warm—even in challenging weather.
This setup worked well in Patagonia but reached its limits in Tierra del Fuego during winter, when inside temperatures were below freezing in the morning and never went beyond 15°C during the day.